Gun Care Formulas with precautions and instructions.

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Xenophile™
(ze'-no-phile : one attracted to foreign things such as styles or people)
Gun Care Formulas & Procedures

© 2010 and all subsequent years by h6x.net

- WARNING -

Neither h6x.net nor Xenophile™
assume any liability or responsibility for the use of these formulas & data.
Use at your own risk!

Introduction by the owner of this web site:

Xenophile™ is the professional trade mark that my husband owns & uses for his products & data. His information is presented here by permission and is also copyrighted by h6x.net. Neither the owner of this web site nor my husband assume any liability or responsibility for the content of this page.

During the course of one's lifetime, we'll likely spend hundreds of dollars in gun care products. Some of these are adequate while others are a total waste of money & time. To be sure, gun care products are expensive and they often don't work nearly as good as the commercial manufacturer would have us believe.

Necessity may be the mother of invention but it also takes a great deal of experimentation & money to invent something that truly works. Fortunately, I have scores of grungy Russian & Soviet firearms that served as the basis for testing a multitude of gun cleaning and refinishing concoctions. During the experimentation process, my husband also took advantage of the Internet where he was fortunate to find various recipes from gentlemen like Ed Harris (father of Ed's Red) and Fr. Frog. Their information served as wonderful inspiration. He also found a lot of useless garbage on the Internet. His own life experiences and his sometimes-annoying scientific mindset was also helpful during this Herculean effort. In the end, he seems to have discovered certain axioms: 1). Don't believe everything you see on the Internet, 2). If you find something that works good, it can usually be made to work much better, 3). Simplicity is sometimes the best solution, 4). Multi-Function products almost never work as good as Single-Function products, 5). Just because someone's special formula includes every chemical under the kitchen sink & in the garage doesn't mean the product will be effective on guns, and 6). Even though Grandpa has been doing something a certain way or using a particular product for decades doesn't mean it's worth a damn. All harsh words but true!

The following Xenophile gun care formulas are world class! In fact, I believe they're more effective than all similar commercial & homemade products. They are the result of endless experimentations by my husband on the most abused guns in the universe. The various ingredients (and the precise amounts used thereof) in the following Xenophile formulas are also inexpensive and readily available at your local hardware, automotive, and/or department store. Like all other gun care products, however; they're all poisonous and some pose a serious health threat if not used properly. They may also damage your firearms if not used properly. Use with caution!

As an avid 2nd Amendment enthusiast, h6x.net is pleased to offer my husband's Xenophile formulas & processes to the non-commercial shooting public. As such, feel free copy & post this information as long as you credit it accordingly and in its entirety. Better yet, you may simply hyperlink to this page at http://www.h6x.net/GunCareFormulas.htm .

Be safe and enjoy shooting!

- Xenophile™ Bore Cleaner -
POISONOUS - FLAMMABLE - EXPANDS - MAY CAUSE EYE DAMAGE
If taken internally, do not induce vomiting and immediately call your physician or the Poison Control Center @ 1-800-222-1222.
If eye or skin contact, wash immediately with water and call your physician.

2 parts: Paint Thinner 100% Mineral Spirits
2 parts: Acetone
1 part: Kerosene
1 part: Automatic Transmission Fluid
1 part: Brake Fluid

Mix in small quantities to avoid contamination + Shake well before each use + Keep lid on container to avoid rapid evaporation
The most effective bore cleaner in the world! Removes carbon & powder residue (plus other gunk) from the bore. Removes some copper fouling but not nearly as effective as Xenophile Copper Fouling & Corrosion Remover (see immediately below). Attacks only the gunk...not the steel bore. Not any more dangerous than other commercial bore cleaners and will not harm blued, parkerized, or nickel-plated surfaces. However, Acetone may sometimes remove the gunstock finish if not wiped off in a reasonably short period of time. Use with brush and/or patch. Preserve the bore with Brake Free CLP immediately after cleaning.

OK, so the above formula works well, but I thought I should mention a commercial product that works even better. The best product I've ever used is Birchwood/Casey Bore Scrubber 2-in-1 Bore Cleaner for Copper & Nitro Fouling. I usually buy the 5 oz. bottle (which keeps me from cross-contaminating the solvent too much). This product does lots of stuff: 1). It's a general purpose bore solvent. 2). It removes copper fouling (it's got ammonia in it so don't let is stay too long on blued parts), and 3). It neutralized the effects of corrosive primers (here again, it contains ammonia although the manufacturer doesn't admit it). I highly recommend this product!

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- Xenophile™ Copper Fouling & Corrosion Remover -
POISONOUS - DANGEROUS VAPORS - MAY CAUSE EYE DAMAGE
If taken internally, do not induce vomiting and immediately call your physician or the Poison Control Center @ 1-800-222-1222.
If eye or skin contact, wash immediately with water and call your physician.

12 parts: Janitor's 10% Ammonia solution
1 part: Ajax Dish Liquid with Lemon
1 part: Pine-Sol

Mix in small quantities to avoid contamination + Shake well before each use + Keep lid on container to avoid rapid evaporation.
The most effective copper fouling remover in the world! Also removes dissimilar metal corrosion due to the reaction between the steel bore and copper fouling (but not nearly as fast acting in this respect as Xenophile Rust & Blue Remover...see below). Additionally, neutralizes the effects of corrosive primers. Attacks only the fouling & corrosion...not the steel bore. Use outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Use on internal gun surfaces only (will start to remove bluing if left on external surfaces for over a minute or two so repeatedly wipe surfaces off with a dry rag). Do not use any brass brushes or brass fixtures with this formula. Successively run soaked patches down the bore at 5 minute intervals with vigorous motion. Lengthy bore soaking does no good because the ammonia evaporates in about 5 minutes. Repeat this process until the patch does NOT turn blue or green. All shades of blue (or sometimes green depending upon the copper alloy of the bullet jacket) indicates copper & dissimilar metal corrosion removal...you may usually stop cleaning when the patch turns light gray. Seriously-fouled bores should begin the cleaning process with Xenophile Rust & Blue Remover (see below), then follow-up with this formula. This formula usually requires numerous soaked patches @ 5-minute intervals (this sometimes takes all day to totally dissolve the fouling unless you've started with Xenophile Rust & Blue Remover). What looks like a terribly-corroded bore is often dissimilar metal corrosion (not purely rust). If copper fouling has been left in the bore for many years (as with most ex-Soviet weapons coming into this country), it will have produced dissimilar metal corrosion with the steel bore and look exactly like rust. It is often possible that the condition of a particular bore may be improved by one full grade using this formula. Afterward, clean the bore with several patches soaked in clean water and then use Xenophile Bore Cleaner (see above). As always, preserve the bore with Brake Free CLP after all gun cleaning processes.

NOTE: Birchwood/Casey's Bore Scrubber also removes copper fouling, but my formula does a better job/much faster. However, my product can ruin a nice blue job very quickly if proper precautions aren't taken.

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- Xenophile™ Corrosive Primer Neutralizer -
POISONOUS - MAY CAUSE EYE DAMAGE
If taken internally, do not induce vomiting and immediately call your physician or the Poison Control Center @ 1-800-222-1222.
If eye or skin contact, wash immediately with water and call your physician.

16 parts: Purified Water
4 parts: Household 3% Ammonia solution
1 part: Ajax Dish Liquid with Lemon

Mix in small quantities + Shake well before each use + Keep lid on container to avoid rapid evaporation.
The best way to neutralize the corrosive effects of corrosive primer compounds! Does not harm the steel bore. This particular ammonia formula is too week to remove copper fouling (see Xenophile Copper Fouling Remover). Use in ventilated area. Use on internal gun surfaces only. May remove bluing on outside surfaces if left to stand. Immediately after shooting ammunition with suspect corrosive primers (and AFTER bore has cooled down), turn gun upside down and spray generously down bore. Follow-up at home with 3 or 4 wet patches with this solution and then dry patches. Also remember that other gun parts such as bolt faces, gas ports, etc. may also need to be neutralized. As always, swab the gun part with another patch or two of water and then dry with dry patches. Clean the gun normally thereafter. Preserve the bore with Brake Free CLP immediately after cleaning.

Basically, anything with ammonia in it will neutralize the effects of corrosive primers. Sweet's 7.62 bore cleaner and Birchwood/Casey's Bore Scrubber also do a great.

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- Xenophile™ Rust & Bluing Remover -
POISONOUS - CAUSTIC - HARMFUL VAPORS - CAUSES BLINDNESS & SKIN BURNS
If taken internally, do not induce vomiting and immediately call your physician or the Poison Control Center @ 1-800-222-1222.
If eye or skin contact, wash immediately with water and call your physician.

16 parts: Muriatic Acid
1 part: Ajax Dish Liquid with Lemon

Mix in small quantities + Stir before each use + Keep lid on container to reduce fumes + Avoid spills + Avoid direct skin contact + Keep an ample supply of clean water nearby as a safety procedure + Always wear protective clothing, gloves, and goggles.
The most effective rust, bluing, parkerizing, and dissimilar metal corrosion remover in the world! Removed rust (iron oxide) will be black while dissimilar metal corrosion will be yellow-green. Read precautions on Muriatic Acid container before use and always use the utmost safety. Protective clothing, rubber gloves, and eye goggles are absolutely necessary. Use outdoors only. Primarily intended for use inside the bore. Any splashes on outside surfaces will instantly remove bluing and parkerization. Xenophile Copper Fouling & Corrosion Remover (see above) also removes dissimilar metal corrosion but works slower. Use this formula primarily with patches, but a bore brush may also be used (but make sure not to spray anything when the brush exits the bore). The bore is clean when the patch is light gray in color (extremely corroded bores may take a dozen or more patches @ 5 minute intervals to fully clean). Afterward, flush & swab thoroughly with water. Next, proceed to clean using Xenophile Copper Fouling & Corrosion Remover until the patches start coming out light-gray in color. Then clean normally with Xenophile Bore Cleaner (patch & brush) and preserve the bore with Brake Free CLP immediately after cleaning.

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- Xenophile™ Brass Cleaning Process -
POISONOUS - FLAMMABLE - DANGEROUS VAPORS - MAY CAUSE EYE DAMAGE
If taken internally, do not induce vomiting and immediately call your physician or the Poison Control Center @ 1-800-222-1222.
If eye or skin contact, wash immediately with water and call your physician.

The following is an economical chemical process that will clean brass cartridge cases. Forget about tumblers, vibrators, cleaning media, polishing grit, and electricity bills. This simple process does it all in a fraction of the time although the cost factor is probably about the same. Oh yes, this ammonia process also neutralizes any residue left behind by corrosive primers. Some sources speculate that ammonia will harden the brass. Perhaps. However, the ammonia content of this formula (and the reduced time it's used) should not present a problem. If you're concerned about possible brass hardening, however, DO NOT use this formula & process!

Materials Needed:
Plastic Bucket (suitable for holding all the brass cases at once)
Wooden or Plastic stirring stick
Kerosene (lamp oil or other petroleum solvent but NOT Gasoline)
Liquid Soap (any dish or laundry soap)
Janitor's 10% Ammonia (NOT Household 3% Ammonia)
Ample Hot Water
Drying Towel

STEP #1...Prepare the Brass Cases: The brass cases MUST be deprimed & resized. The vigorous cleaning processes below do not distort the case mouth but it may be necessary to ream the mouth before reloading.
STEP #2...Optional Kerosene Cleaning: This first step is optional and is meant for cases that exhibit excessive black residue around the necks (the following steps also clean this grunge but kerosene will do a better job in most situation). Place a small amount of Kerosene (or Lamp oil or other petroleum-based solvent) in a plastic tub. DO NOT USE GASOLINE! It doesn't take much Kerosene and you don't need to fully submerge the cases. Simply stir the cases with a wooden or plastic stick periodically in Kerosene for about an hour then drain off the Kerosene and prepare for the next step.
STEP #3...Soap Cleaning: Submerge the brass cases in a bucket of hot water and add a sufficient amount of liquid dish/laundry detergent (about ½ cup per gallon of water). Periodically stir the cases for at least an hour. Drain the soapy mixture and continue to rinse the cases in hot water until the bubbles disappear, then fully drain.
STEP #4...Ammonia & Soap Cleaning: This process must be done outdoors or in a well ventilated area to avoid the ammonia fumes. Submerge the brass cases in a plastic bucket of hot water and add Janitor's 10% Ammonia (about 8 cups per gallon of water). Please note that regular Household Ammonia is too weak to be of any good in this process. Also add ½ cup of liquid soap per gallon of water. Vigorously stir the brass cases with a wooden or plastic stick every 10 minutes for at least an hour (or until the cases are thoroughly clean & bright). You'll notice that the mixture will turn blue (which indicates that the ammonia is removing the discoloration). Be advised that it's possible to clean too much...if left too long in this ammonia mixture, the cases may begin to turn a darker copper color or they may even become etched. Watch them closely to avoid over cleaning. Usually, this is no problem if the cases are not kept in this mixture for over 2 hours. Drain this mixture and continue to rinse with hot water until ALL the soapy bubbles are gone (this will necessitate several thorough rinses & stirring).
STEP #5...Drying: Place the cases on a clean towel and vigorously rub dry. Notice that the primer pocket and inside the case may still be blackened with residue...this is nothing to worry about. The cases will also be damp inside. Simply place the cases in front of a fan or outdoors until they're thoroughly dry. As long as the outside of the cases are fully dry, there will be no inadvertent discoloring during the drying process.
STEP #6...Culling: Once dry, thoroughly inspect the brass cases. Discard all cases that exhibit corrosion pitting, splits, cracks, folds, dents, or any other unsuitable features. Slight discoloration spots are usually fine as long as the brass surface shows no sign of corrosion pits.
STEP #7...Final Case Preparation: Ream the case mouths. You are now ready to store the cases in an acid free container or reload as necessary.

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- Xenophile™ Parkerizing Formula & Process -
Matte Charcoal-Black Manganese Phosphate Formula
POISONOUS - SCALDING LIQUID - CAUSTIC - DANGEROUS PARTICULATES & VAPORS - Will CAUSE SKIN & EYE DAMAGE
If taken internally, do not induce vomiting and immediately call your physician or the Poison Control Center @ 1-800-222-1222.
If eye or skin contact, wash immediately with cool water and call your physician.

General Notes:
This formula & process will produce a charcoal-black matte finish that will be more durable than most blue jobs. However, this is not the original Parkerizing process although processes like this are commonly referred to as such. More accurately, this particular process uses an updated manganese phosphate formula that chemically etches & bonds (phosphates) the steel gun surface. Do not confuse this with the slate-gray zinc oxide Parkerizing procedure, which is the original process used on WWII U.S. weapons. Manganese phosphate is effective on most ferrous gun metals whose primary alloy is steel...basically, anything that a magnet will stick to. This process does NOT adhere to copper, chrome, nickel, aluminum, aluminum-magnesium alloy, lead or silver soldered areas, or stainless steel. Overall, the formula is not finicky unless the manganese dioxide concentration is too low or the bath temperature is also too low. The solution can be saved and used again as long as all ingredients are refreshed a bit. However, the ingredients are so inexpensive (as compared to commercial Parkerizing kits) that you may as well mix a fresh batch each time. This is an easy Do-It-Yourself process. You must also work outdoors due to the annoying fumes, and wear protective clothing. The most critical steps involve preparing the gun parts for their bath. Lets get started:

Materials Needed:
Stainless Steel Container/Tank (a cheap kitchen pan from a dept. store or buy the rifle tanks at guns supply dealers).
Black Wire (any kind of mechanic's steel wire will do as long as it's not copper).
Stirring Stick (stainless steel spoon or wood kitchen spoon).
Wood Support Sticks (parts will be hung from these sticks across the top of the container with the mechanic's wire).
Kitchen Thermometer (optional).
Spray Can of WD-40.
Plastic or Rubber Gloves.
Protective Glasses.
Rubberized Shop Apron.
Acetone (any other degreasing solvent may be sued).

Formula: (Enough for a handgun. Everything depends upon the size of your container/tank.)
1 Gallon: Distilled Water (available at grocery stores...do NOT use tap water, filtered water, or drinking water)
¼ Cup: Manganese Dioxide, 325 mesh or smaller (available from all pottery supply stores @ $1.25 per lb.).
½ Cup: Phosphoric Acid ($7.50 for Jasco Prep & Primer at Home Depot...make sure you read the warnings on the container)
1 Steel Wool Pad: 1 pad for each 1 to 5 gallons of mixture (suspended in the mixture).

Step-By-Step Instructions:
1. Disassemble the gun...right down to the smallest spring and pin (although, you don't need to disassemble any parts that won't be Parkerized.
2. Remove the old finish. The easiest way to do this is to soak the parts in a 50/50 mixture of Water/Muriatic Acid or simply use the Jasco Prep & Primer until it's as clean as a whistle.
3. Remove or smooth out any undesirable nicks, scratches, or dents as necessary. Be careful not to remove any legally-required information.
4. This process works best when the surface is slightly distressed...it gives the manganese dioxide something to hold on to. Mirror-smooth surfaces (like the bore) won't hold any Parkerizing solution very well. To distress the surface, you may use a glass bead blaster ($15 at Home Depot), 180 grit emery cloth, or a wire wheel (my favorite). It doesn't take much and any distressing you do will usually not show up on the finished product unless you gouge things out too much.
5. All parts must be thoroughly degreased. This is best accomplished with a thorough washing with soap & water followed by a soaking in Acetone. Any method you use is fine as long as all grease and oils are removed. You must never touch the gun surface after this because even the slightest fingerprint will be evident.
6. Use this formula on only the parts you want covered. Basically, if the gun's bolt or barrel wasn't originally blued, then don't use this method either. Also, springs should probably not be finished.
7. Don't plug (or seal off) blind holes or the bore. If you do this, chances are that it will explode due to the heat and spray hot chemicals on you. Don't worry about the bore because this solution doesn't stick well on mirror-surfaces and it can be easily removed later by a few strokes of a brass cleaning brush.
8. Prepare the worksite and the hot-bath container that you'll be using ahead of time. Is the container long & deep enough to allow complete submersion? A propane camp stove used outdoors is a good choice. Thread the mechanic's wire through pin holes in the gun parts and suspend them from wood sticks atop the container. But remember, every place that a wire touches, there will be no finish (unless you jiggle things around quite a bit during the process). For small parts, punch several small holes in a vegetable can and place the parts in the can (put a wire handle on the can so you can grab on to it during the process). You'll also need room for stirring and suspending the steel wool pad in the mixture. Now that you know everything will fit, remove all the gun parts from the container so that you may mix the formula.
9. Add & thoroughly mix the above formula ingredients (in the order shown) to your container/tank (note, you haven't added the gun parts yet). Bring the mixture to a slow boil (you can use a kitchen thermometer if you like and bring the temperature up to 210ºF. to 225ºF.). The reason that a thermometer isn't necessary is because you won't be able to get the mixture any hotter than the boiling point...in reality, a hotter temperature would make the process work faster but you're limited by the boiling point. Expect some boil off and obnoxious fumes (that's why you're working outdoors). Stir the mixture frequently and then add all the parts once you've reached the boiling point. Continue to stir and jiggle the parts & parts can each 30 seconds during this process. The gun parts will fizz in this mixture...this shows that everything is working perfectly. Normally, the process takes from 15 to 40 minutes but this depends upon the mixture concentration, temperature, and metal alloy. Once the fizzing on the parts has greatly subsided, then keep the parts in the bath for another 5 minutes (or until the desired finish is achieved). Nothing is very critical here and it all depends upon your preferences.
10. Turn off the stove when you're satisfied with the results.
11. Remove each part (or the can of small parts) one at a time from the hot bath. In about 5 to 10 seconds they'll be dry due to the temperature...IMMEDIATELY spray the part with WD-40. This stops the process, neutralizes the mixture, and prevents unsightly white smears/streaks from appearing. Remove each part one at a time and do the same. Keep all parts soaked in WD-40 until the parts have cooled down. Once cooled down, wipe off the WD-40 and clean the parts as you normally would (I recommend oiling & preserving with Break Free CLP). Before you assemble the gun, clean any residue from the bore with a brass brush. Instead of using this WD-40 process, you can also use a hot water bath followed by a soaking in motor oil but the WD-40 process seems to be the most efficient.
12. You'll notice that the bearing/contact surfaces are not as smooth as they were originally. This is especially noticeable on automatic pistols and rifle bolts. No problem! Just work things back and forth a little and they smooth right out.
13. You're done! Your gun will look new and the finish will absorb & hold gun oil better than a blue job.

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- Xenophile™ Bluing Salts Formula & Process -
POISONOUS - SCALDING LIQUID - CAUSTIC - OXIDIZER - Will CAUSE SKIN & EYE DAMAGE
If taken internally, do not induce vomiting and immediately call your physician or the Poison Control Center @ 1-800-222-1222.
If eye or skin contact, wash immediately with cool water and call your physician.

General Notes:
This formula & process will produce a deep blue-black finish that will rival any commercial/factory blue job in the world. It works mainly on steel or high grade steel alloys. This process does NOT work on copper, nickel, lead/tin/silver soldered areas, and especially stainless steel. However, it may be slightly reactive to chrome and aluminum surfaces (but it won't harm them). To make sure, use the "magnet test"...if a magnet sticks to the metal then it will probably work. Overall, the formula is not finicky unless you've failed to fully degrease the metal surfaces or the temperature is too cold. These bluing salts can be used on several guns at the same time and they can be saved (in a plastic container) for up to 2 years and used again as long as the evaporated distilled water is slightly refreshed). This is an easy Do-It-Yourself process. You must also work outdoors and wear protective glasses & clothing. The most critical steps involve preparing the gun parts for their hot bluing bath. Lets get started:

Materials Needed:
Stainless Steel Bluing Tank (You can also use black iron tanks or a porcelain pot if you're doing a handgun...you CANNOT use aluminum or galvanized tanks).
Another Tank (For boiling the parts after removal from the Bluing Tank).
Black Wire (Any kind of mechanic's steel wire will do as long as it's not copper or aluminum).
Stirring Stick (Stainless steel spoon or wood kitchen spoon).
Wood Support Sticks (The parts will be hung from these sticks across the top of the container with the mechanic's wire).
Kitchen Thermometer (optional).
Spray Can of WD-40.
Plastic, Latex, or Rubber Gloves.
Protective Glasses.
Rubberized Shop Apron.
Acetone (Or any other degreasing solvent).
Paint Brush (Unused & degreased)

Formula:
1 Gallon of Distilled Water. (Available at all grocery stores for 75¢. Do NOT use tap water, filtered water, purified water, or drinking water!).
16 oz. of 100% Lye. Sold at all hardware stores for $5.00 per lb. as a drain cleaner, but make sure the product says 100% Lye.
21 oz. of 100% Potassium Nitrate (aka: Saltpeter or KNO3). By far, the most cost effective source is off-the-shelf Stump Remover. Spectracide and Grant's Stump Remover does the trick at $6.50 per lb., and it can be purchased at any lawn & garden center in America. DO NOT buy Bondine or Gordon's brands because they're not 100% Potassium Nitrate or the prills contain wax or some other anti-cake chemical. Basically, any 100% Potassium Nitrate source will do just fine (powder, balls, or granules). Curiously, the two source brands I mentioned above don't mention their percentage level (but these two are 100%). Now for a chemistry lesson...all bluing formulas need a nitrate oxidizer (NO3).This is ideally satisfied with Potassium Nitrate (KNO3). Some misguided fools have posted online formulas using Ammonia Nitrate or Potassium Nitrate fertilizer as a nitrate/oxidizer substitute. This is the dumbest thing I've ever heard of because there are almost always trace elements, urea, and other so-called inert ingredients that really screw up the blue job. Also, the ammonia in the 34-0-0 Ammonia Nitrate fertilizer is terribly annoying and it also tends to make the blue job less effective with a light-blue & spotty color. Basically, if you start substituting impure/contaminated chemicals, you'll never know what to expect from one job to another. This formula produces a deep blue-black finish every time (if you follow the directions).
The above is usually enough for a handgun but the size of the tank determines how much to use since the gun parts must be immersed. Remember, for each gallon of distilled water you would add the other two ingredients.

Step-By-Step Instructions:
1. Disassemble the gun...right down to the smallest spring and pin (because the bluing salts tend to get trapped between the cracks and will later grow/corrode). Even a thorough washing in boiling water is usually not enough to remove the salts between the cracks.
2. Remove the old finish. The easiest way to do this is to soak the parts in a 50/50 mixture of Water/Muriatic Acid until it's as clean as a whistle.
3. Remove or smooth out any undesirable nicks, scratches, or dents as necessary. Be careful not to remove any legally-required information.
4. All finishing processes work better when the surface is slightly distressed...however, this bluing formula & process will also work on mirror finishes. To distress the surface (if you choose to do so), you may use a glass bead blaster ($15 at Home Depot), 360 grit emery cloth, steel wool, or a wire wheel.
5. All parts must be thoroughly degreased. This is best accomplished with a thorough washing with soap & water followed by a soaking in Acetone. Any method you use is fine as long as ALL grease and oils are removed. You must NEVER touch the gun surface after this because even the slightest fingerprint will be evident.
6. Use this formula on only the parts you want covered. Basically, if the gun's bolt wasn't originally blued, then don't reblue it.
7. Don't plug (or seal off) blind holes or the bore. If you do this, chances are that it will explode due to the heat and spray hot chemicals on you. Don't worry about the bore because this will be cleaned out and/or shot out quite easily.
8. Prepare the worksite and the two tanks (bluing bath & water rinse bath) that you'll be using ahead of time. Is the container long & deep enough to allow complete submersion? A propane camp stove used OUTDOORS is a good choice. Thread the mechanic's wire through pin holes or the barrel, and suspend them from wood sticks atop the tank. But remember, every place that a wire touches, there may be no bluing (unless you jiggle things around quite a bit during the process). For small parts, punch several small holes in a steel (sheet metal) vegetable can (NOT aluminum) and place the parts in the can (put a wire handle on the can so you can grab on to it during the process). Now that you know everything will fit, remove all the gun parts from the container so that you may mix the formula.
9. In the Bluing Tank, add the Distilled Water and bring to a boil. Additional distilled water can be added if you think there's too much evaporation. Next, slowly add & mix the 100% Lye. You'll notice that the more ingredients you add, the higher the boiling temperature so you'll need to keep turning up the heat. Next, slowly add & mix the Potassium Nitrate. Stir thoroughly and bring to a slow rolling boil, and make sure that the Potassium Nitrate source is fully dissolved. This mixture will boil at 285º F. ± 10º F., which is exactly the temperature you want. You can check this with a good kitchen thermometer but as long as the mixture is slowly boiling then the temperature is perfect...too much boiling will rapidly evaporate the distilled water (in this case, you may need to keep up the water level by adding more).
10. Start heating up the tank of hot water (which will be used later as a rinsing bath). Filtered water will be OK for this process.
11. Place the gun parts in the Bluing Tank (suspended on the wire & sticks). NEVER allow a gun part to set on the bottom of the tank as this will cause all sorts of problems such as sooting, plumb discoloration, uneven bluing, incomplete bluing, etc. Stir the mixture and jiggle the gun parts every 2 or 3 minutes. The gun parts will be fully blued in about 20 - 40 minutes. Check the progress and stop bluing when the desired depth is achieved. Basically, the longer the part sits in the bluing bath, the deeper color it will become (to a point).
12. Turn off the stove to the Bluing Tank when you're satisfied with the results. If you later notice that there is uneven coloration (usually caused by a fingerprint or incomplete degreasing), you can clean these off and re-dip the parts in this process all over again...in most cases, the uneven coloration spot will darken to the surrounding areas.
13. Remove the gun parts and IMMEDIATELY suspend them in the boiling hot water tank for about 5 - 10 minutes.
14. Remove the gun parts one at a time and IMMEDIATELY after they dry, spray with WD-40. As the WD-40 evaporates, you'll need to make sure that the parts are always saturated with WD-40 otherwise the gun parts may immediately begin to rust. Basically, WD-40 cures & neutralizes the gun salts (an oil bath of 10w 30 motor oil will do the same thing but WD-40 is more convenient and less expensive).
15. Once everything is cooled down, thoroughly wipe off the WD-40 and clean the gun parts as you normally would. Make sure that each blind hole, all screw threads, and the bore are thoroughly cleaned & oiled otherwise any remaining bluing salts will start to "grow". I prefer Brake Free CLP as a preservative. The bore will easily scrub out with a brass bore brush but it will also shoot out after just a few rounds.
16. Assemble your gun and preserve it with Brake Free CLP.
17. Check your gun at frequent intervals to make sure there are no growing bluing salts (that you failed to remove).. As an added precaution, I always clean my bores with Xenophile Corrosive Primer Neutralizer just to make sure that all the bluing salts have been neutralized...but never use any ammonia product on the outside surface of your gun!
18. You're done! Your gun will look new and the blue job will be world class!

- Other Xenophile™ Gun Cleaning Tips -
stuff you may not have been aware of

Excessive Cleaning: An old timer use to remind me that every stroke of a cleaning brush was like shooting 50 rounds down the bore. Indeed, more bores are ruined by using destructive cleaning measures that through normal use & neglect combined. It therefore makes sense to use products that attack only the grime & fouling but leave the integrity of the steel bore intact. Items such as bore brushes, steel wool, and lapping compounds should be used only in the most severe situations.

Long-Term Storage Grease: The first thing you'll need to do is disassemble the firearm and thoroughly clean it. After cleaning, apply Brake Free CLP as you normally would (these folks now make a long-term product that's worth trying). About the only precaution worth mentioning is that if you apply too much CLP (or any other gun oil) it will partially dissolve the grease (that you'll next be applying). Basically, apply the CLP sparingly...don't make it sloppy. You'll next need to apply an exceptional grease that will not dry-out, crack, separate (due to age or heat), run, and provides anti-rust inhibitors. There as special/commercial gun-greases that are sold for this purpose...most are terribly expensive and I seriously doubt they'll do everything as advertised. The U.S. military used the now-infamous Cosmoline. Other worldwide military arsenals surely used their own grease formula. Some of these performed well over time and some didn't. Then there's the cleanup problem after a few decades of sitting in strategic storage. Never fear, I've discovered a cheap off-the-shelf product that works 100% of the time and cleans up easily. For years, I've been using Shell's Rotella Heavy Duty Lithium Complex 2 (automotive grease). However, this isn't just any old wheel-bearing grease...it's the best of the best! Even so, a small tube of this stuff will only set you back a couple of dollars and it will easily protect a few hundred firearms...for decades! Make sure you don't transfer your own body-salts into the grease as you apply it and be sure to coat any gun part that's susceptible to corrosion...especially the bore. Apply this to the bore just as you would regularly apply any gun oil (fully impregnate a cotton cloth and swipe the bore & chamber generously...don't fill up the bore tube with grease!). Cleanup, even after several years, is easy. This grease will never harden (like Cosmoline) and any light lubricant (like CLP or Remington's spray-on gun oil) will quickly dissolve the grease. Then wipe it off. Long term storage is that easy!

Corrosion: There are two basic types of corrosion that attack the bore: 1). iron oxide (rust) and 2). dissimilar metal corrosion (anode-cathode reaction between the steel barrel and copper fouling from jacketed bullets). They often look the same! Basically, acid formulas such as Xenophile Rust & Bluing Remover (see above) quickly remove both rust and dissimilar metal corrosion while ammonia cleaners such as the Xenophile Copper Fouling & Corrosion Remover (see above) are specifically designed to remove copper fouling and dissimilar metal corrosion (but at a slower pace). Rust often shows up really soon (as in the case of corrosive primers...see entry below). It can usually be kept at bay by covering the exposed steel barrel surface with oil so that oxidation can't occur. Once the oil dries out, however, iron oxidation begins. Dissimilar metal corrosion is more sneaky. Only one or two bullets shot down the bore can start the corrosion process that often takes years before it becomes visible. A good example of this are surplus military rifles such as the Mosin-Nagant M1891 variants. When they were arsenal refinished in the 1950s, the bores were never fully de-fouled of the copper alloy residue. As such, dissimilar metal corrosion (between the copper fouling and the steel barrel) started to corrode the barrel. To the naked eye, we probably wouldn't be able to notice the difference from one year to the next. However, if photographs of the bore were taken each decade, there would be an obvious difference. Worse yet, dissimilar metal corrosion will continue to grow even under a thick coating of oil, grease, or cosmoline. More about cleaning terribly corroded bores below...

Corrosive Primers: Most surplus military ammunition coming into the USA these days is corrosively primed. These compounds were used because they were cheap. When fired, they shower the bore with corrosive salts that immediately start to enhance the normal iron oxide corrosion process. The ammonia-based process above (see Xenophile Corrosive Primer Neutralizer) chemically neutralizes these corrosive salts. These salts may also be washed away by hot water and and soap, but this method is not always as effective as neutralization. Oils and oil-based preservatives & solvents DO NOT neutralize or wash away these corrosive salts. In any event, treat all foreign military surplus ammunition as if it were corrosively primed unless you absolutely know that it isn't. NOTE: some ammunition sellers sell this ammunition as if it weren't corrosively primed...but it is! For more information on corrosive primers, CLICK HERE.

Erosive Powders & Primers and Dirty Powders: Some smokeless powders and foreign priming compounds use elements that erode the bore surface faster than others. Eastern European powders & primers are noted for being far more erosive on the bore surface that here in America. Additionally, surplus communist-block ammunition (and even new ammunition produced in the former Soviet Union) often use powder that produces a lot of sooty residue. Except for a little more cleaning than usual, you'll probably never notice the difference unless you're a purist who values the condition of his/her bore more than your spouse.

Jacketed Bullets With Exposed Lead Bases: Many European jacketed bullets (especially old surplus Eastern-Block ammunition) will have an exposed base where lead is visible. This will always cause bore leading to one degree or another. While unhealthy, the extent of bore leading with these types of bullets is usually moderate and the lead is usually removed through the normal cleaning process. This will often show up as a grayed patch. In most situations, it can be removed with patches soaked in Break Free CLP. If this still doesn't remove all of the lead, use a brass brush soaked in Break Free CLP followed by patches with the same product. Please note that this is not the same sort of lead fouling that one may encounter in pistol barrels...that sort of fouling often leaves a thin layer of lead inside the bore. The type of lead fouling that these exposed-base bullets leave is a microscopic mist of lead gasses.

Rehabilitating The Worst-Of-The-Worst Bores: Old military rifles are often encountered with bores that have been left to rust, corrode, and foul for many years. These are easy to spot. However, you may not have thought it possible to rehabilitate these ugly bores. It's been my experience that even the worst condition bores can usually be improved by as much as one full grade. Here are the steps: Use Xenophile Rust & Bluing Remover until the patch comes clean (it will be a very black and/or yellow-green patch at first). Then, use this same product on a brass brush wrapped with steel wool...only a few passes will suffice. Flush/swab with water. Next, clean the bore with Xenophile Copper Fouling & Corrosion Remover (with patches only). Flush/Swab with water. Next, clean the bore with Xenophile Bore Cleaner. Finally, preserve the bore with Break Free CLP. You'll bee utterly amazed at the difference. You may also notice that the bore/groove diameter is the same as it was before you started this process.

Still Can't Get The Bore Clean: Sometimes a slightly gray patch is caused by a recent blue job. Many surplus weapons coming into America were arsenal reblued...most several decades ago. Since bluing salts cause corrosion if not completely removed, the arsenal was sure to have scrubbed the bore before packing these guns away in crates for decades. Unfortunately, if the bore was slightly corroded in the first place, the bluing salts found a microscopic home in which to grow. Also, the chamber probably wasn't de-blued properly when the bores were scrubbed before storage. Fortunately, Xenophile Copper Fouling & Corrosion Remover will neutralize the bluing salts and eventually remove the bluing from the chamber...it just takes a little extra work.

Mercuric Primers: Prior to WWII, many priming compounds (both commercial and military) used mercury. Not only is mercury terribly unhealthy but highly corrosive (especially on brass). If you've ever fire a cartridge made in the mid 1930s or before, you must clean your bore with Xenophile Corrosive Primer Neutralizer and NEVER use the case again! This is because mercury embeds itself within the brass and corrodes from the inside out.

Reloading Brass Cases That Were Originally Corrosive Primed: Once a brass case (which originally used corrosive primers) has been fired, the corrosive priming compounds continue to live within the case (but in an inactive state). These don't seem to effect the brass case but the unsuspecting reloader will reinfect the bore when the case is fired again. By all means, these corrosive salts MUST be neutralized. A simple wash using a small amount of ammonia will do the trick.

Difficulty Keeping an Old Bore Clean: The more pock-marked or eroded a bore is, the more difficult it is to keep it clean! Bores that look like swiss cheese scrape off a lot more of the bullet jacket and collect a lot more of the powder residue than a mirror-finish bore. Contrary to popular belief, this sort of fouling cannot be "shot out". Oh yes, and neither can rust! Consequently, an old bore keeps collecting more and more fouling, gunk, and corrosion that continues to grow. Old military rifles are like mouse traps when it comes to gathering this sort of vermin. The formulas listed above will usually take care of this problem. Basically, get your bore as clean as you can get it and it will be much easier to clean the next time.

Protect the Crown: If possible, clean your gun from the breech end (not the muzzle end). The crown at the end of the muzzle is quite delicate and any slightest dent or burr will cause the bullet to fly erratically.

Why I Recommend certain Products: Hey, they work!.

Don't Get in a Hurry: Always clean your gun immediately after use and give yourself enough time to do a thorough job. Don't try to speed up the process by the excessive use of brushes. Some processes (like copper fouling & copper corrosion removal) may take all day to satisfactorily complete so prepare a nice working area and prepare your mind for a lengthy process. Oh yes, and if you've fired ammunition with corrosive primers, recheck your firearm at intervals of 1 day, 3 days, 1 week, and 1 month prior to placing the gun at the back of your safe.